Have you ever wanted to take a cheap Chinese remote and make it highly directional? How about super long-range? Unless you’re a complete wackadoo, your answer will be “No, I don’t need that in my life.”
Well, wackadoos, I made a simple print that holds a cheap lens in front of a cheap remote to make them transmit several times further than stock by focusing the infrared beam.
Some of my laser tag subroutines responded to these infrared signals and I wanted to be able to trigger them from far away. Similarly, when folks were standing next to one another, I didn’t necessarily want to affect many people all at once. For example, if someone was acting like a jerk I may want to disable his or her vest from a long distance. Another example would be assigning teams, I may want to put you on RED team without accidentally reassigning someone from BLUE team.
“Pretty nifty, huh?”
These inexpensive remotes can be purchased from Adafruit or in kits from China. They’re all the same size and they have the same guts. I found this out when I peeled the sticker off the front, even a simple 2-button remote has contacts for all twenty-one buttons.
The instructions are exactly what you would expect. Print or order the parts, assemble them with four small screws (#4 , M2.5), add a Google Cardboard lens, and slide in the remote. It is "tuned" by sliding the remote back and forth to find a sweet spot. The sweet spot is where the light is collimated and you get the best range. With the remote pictured below, I was able to quaruple the working range which also did a good job of preventing the remote from triggering anything when it wasn't directly pointed at the intended receiver.
Downloads:
First time here?
Completed projects from year 1
Completed projects from year 2
Completed projects from year 3
Disclaimer for http://24hourengineer.blogspot.com/ and 24hourengineer.com
This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.
All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.
All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.
Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim property or assets based on a post.
This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.
2017-04-11 (Tu)
Well, wackadoos, I made a simple print that holds a cheap lens in front of a cheap remote to make them transmit several times further than stock by focusing the infrared beam.
Some of my laser tag subroutines responded to these infrared signals and I wanted to be able to trigger them from far away. Similarly, when folks were standing next to one another, I didn’t necessarily want to affect many people all at once. For example, if someone was acting like a jerk I may want to disable his or her vest from a long distance. Another example would be assigning teams, I may want to put you on RED team without accidentally reassigning someone from BLUE team.
“Pretty nifty, huh?”
Parts
These inexpensive remotes can be purchased from Adafruit or in kits from China. They’re all the same size and they have the same guts. I found this out when I peeled the sticker off the front, even a simple 2-button remote has contacts for all twenty-one buttons.
Identical form-factor remotes
Identical guts in both remotes
The instructions are exactly what you would expect. Print or order the parts, assemble them with four small screws (#4 , M2.5), add a Google Cardboard lens, and slide in the remote. It is "tuned" by sliding the remote back and forth to find a sweet spot. The sweet spot is where the light is collimated and you get the best range. With the remote pictured below, I was able to quaruple the working range which also did a good job of preventing the remote from triggering anything when it wasn't directly pointed at the intended receiver.
Long-range, cheap-ass remote
Downloads:
- OpenSCAD code for remote lens holder
- Printable STL model of remote lens holder
- Alternative button layout PDF
First time here?
Completed projects from year 1
Completed projects from year 2
Completed projects from year 3
Disclaimer for http://24hourengineer.blogspot.com/ and 24hourengineer.com
This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.
All information in this blog, or linked by this blog, are not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.
All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.
Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim property or assets based on a post.
This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.
2017-04-11 (Tu)
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