The measurements for the temperature controller were presumably for the maximum dimensions of the faceplate. The necessary hole size must be smaller. The actual measurements were taken as 2-3/4 inches by 1-1/8 inches. These are probably neater numbers in metric. The midpoint of the enclosure lid was marked then a line was drawn perpendicular to the midpoint, or parallel to the adjacent edges, with a depth gauge by sliding it along the edge and making periodic marks. Another shipping label was marked on. Lines 1-3/8 inches were drawn away from the center line to keep the controller centered. Lines for the height of the box were drawn away from the edge of the label to give the dimensions for the box. A template should be drafted 1:1 scale so others may simply place a precise template when cutting for this controller.
A drill bit larger than the saw blade was selected to make it easier to insert the saw blade into the hole. The drill bit was also used to make divots in the plastic. The drill bit itself was used because it could be placed alongside the cut lines and arranged so the drilled hole would not escape the bounds of the cut-away region. Four divots were made, one on each cut line. The 3/8 inch holes were drilled on a drill press.
A handheld jigsaw was raised up with small wooden slabs so the edge of the lid would not interfere with cutting. The cut-away region for the controller was removed and finely shaped with the jigsaw. The same techniques were used to remove the cut-away region of the receptacle but less attention was given to shaping the hole. Both devices fit their respective holes and imperfections in the hole shapes we're covered by their faceplate or cover. The cutting was done from the inside of the enclosure lid to keep the cover from getting scratched during work.
Holes were marked for the #8 mounting bolts of the duplex receptacle then drilled to 11/64 inches. #8 brass nuts were borrowed from the ESPer.Impass project.
The protective rear cover of the controller was removed to access the terminals. The included directions were consulted to determine the pinout which is lovely in, presumably, Chinese. A translation written on part of a sticky note was plied to the controller to avoid confusion. It may be noted that the thermometer (NTC) is not polarity sensitive.
Lever-style wire nuts were used since the wire in the IEC cable is finely stranded. The wires could also be soldered or crimped. A drawing should be made for the schematic if this project.
The wired device was plugged in and tested. The display flashed "LLL" which presumably means the controller recognizes the temperature probe is not plugged in.
To do:
Width of controller
Height of controller
Drawing a neat perpendicular line
Width of controller transposed to paper
Height of controller transposed to paper
3/8" inch drill bit compared to 5/16"
Aligning bit with edge of cut line
Using the drill bit to make a divot
Four divots, one for each edge
Four 3/8" holes
A handheld jigsaw was raised up with small wooden slabs so the edge of the lid would not interfere with cutting. The cut-away region for the controller was removed and finely shaped with the jigsaw. The same techniques were used to remove the cut-away region of the receptacle but less attention was given to shaping the hole. Both devices fit their respective holes and imperfections in the hole shapes we're covered by their faceplate or cover. The cutting was done from the inside of the enclosure lid to keep the cover from getting scratched during work.
Cutting with a saw raised by slab of wood
Removed cut-away region
Not the best hole ever cut out
Cut-away region for receptacle
Receptacle checking clearances
Holes were marked for the #8 mounting bolts of the duplex receptacle then drilled to 11/64 inches. #8 brass nuts were borrowed from the ESPer.Impass project.
Marked holes
Drilled to 11/64"
The protective rear cover of the controller was removed to access the terminals. The included directions were consulted to determine the pinout which is lovely in, presumably, Chinese. A translation written on part of a sticky note was plied to the controller to avoid confusion. It may be noted that the thermometer (NTC) is not polarity sensitive.
Controller and directions
Translation of pins
- Common wire, white, was hooked to
- Terminal 4 on controller
- Silver bolt on receptacle
- Line wire, black, was hooked to
- Terminal 3 on controller
- Terminal 2 on controller
- One brass bolt on receptacle
- Ground wire, green was hooked to
- The grounding lug on receptacle
- Terminal 1 on controller was hooked to the other brass bolt of the receptacle
Ground and common wired up
Power wired up
The wired device was plugged in and tested. The display flashed "LLL" which presumably means the controller recognizes the temperature probe is not plugged in.
Display showing LLL
To do:
- Wire 3.5mm plug and 3.5mm jack
- Draft controller template for cut-out
- Sketch circuit
- Mount thermometer in whisk
- Test
- Document
Journal page 1
Journal page 2
Journal page 3
Journal Page 4
A list showing of all the final posts of COMPLETED projects.
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