I started a project that was unusual in two ways. The most obvious was that I was working on a firearm, and the second was that I was following the standard directions. I bought an eighty percent receiver to make a gun. I started by milling out the area where the spring-loaded trigger components will go, also known as the fire control group. I didn't do a perfect job.
The next time I milled, I went closer to the edges to match the red jig, and I focused on cutting straight lines. Sadly, I cut too deep, and my receiver's bottom is now thin plastic where it should be 1/16" (3mm) thick. The edges cleaned up nicely because it is nylon.
The errors I made were partially due to me failing to read the directions, but the next part is entirely my fault. I tried to install the bolt catch release lever according to regular instructions, but I was supposed to insert a small pin and set screw. I jammed the rod in so hard that I couldn't remove it, even with pliers. I needed to heat it with a soldering iron to soften the plastic so I could yank it out.
After the third round of milling, I finally inserted the trigger and hammer components. Springs for the trigger rest on the floor of the fire control cavity, and that is where I have thin plastic. You can see in the picture that it is almost paper-thin and even tore when I applied some pressure. It seems to function because the springs don't press there, and the trigger holds in place with a pin. I suspect I could cut out that thin plastic, and it wouldn't hurt anything, but it would allow stuff to fall into the gun.
After everything I learned from milling out the gray receiver, I wanted to start a new one and demonstrate the correct way to do things. I bought two receivers, so I started on my second, a white one. This time I always erred on the side of not taking out enough plastic rather than too much.
As expected, I needed to make a few passes to remove all the plastic, but taking the extra time, paid off. The included jig overhangs the cavity, so the best way to clear this area is to force the milling bit over. Even then, I took out a little extra by the hammer pin holes and the trigger pin holes. The best tool for cleaning up the edges was a rotary tool with a sanding drum.
The rest of the summary posts have been arranged by date. First time here?
Completed projects from year 1
Completed projects from year 2
Completed projects from year 3
Completed projects from year 4
Completed projects from year 5
Completed projects from year 6
Completed projects from year 7
Disclaimer for http://24hourengineer.blogspot.com and 24HourEngineer.com
This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.
All information on this blog, or linked by this blog, is not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property, or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.
All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.
Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim property or assets based on their post.
This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.
First pass with a milling bit
The next time I milled, I went closer to the edges to match the red jig, and I focused on cutting straight lines. Sadly, I cut too deep, and my receiver's bottom is now thin plastic where it should be 1/16" (3mm) thick. The edges cleaned up nicely because it is nylon.
Second pass and clean
The errors I made were partially due to me failing to read the directions, but the next part is entirely my fault. I tried to install the bolt catch release lever according to regular instructions, but I was supposed to insert a small pin and set screw. I jammed the rod in so hard that I couldn't remove it, even with pliers. I needed to heat it with a soldering iron to soften the plastic so I could yank it out.
Heated extraction
After the third round of milling, I finally inserted the trigger and hammer components. Springs for the trigger rest on the floor of the fire control cavity, and that is where I have thin plastic. You can see in the picture that it is almost paper-thin and even tore when I applied some pressure. It seems to function because the springs don't press there, and the trigger holds in place with a pin. I suspect I could cut out that thin plastic, and it wouldn't hurt anything, but it would allow stuff to fall into the gun.
Trigger and thin plastic
After everything I learned from milling out the gray receiver, I wanted to start a new one and demonstrate the correct way to do things. I bought two receivers, so I started on my second, a white one. This time I always erred on the side of not taking out enough plastic rather than too much.
White receiver
As expected, I needed to make a few passes to remove all the plastic, but taking the extra time, paid off. The included jig overhangs the cavity, so the best way to clear this area is to force the milling bit over. Even then, I took out a little extra by the hammer pin holes and the trigger pin holes. The best tool for cleaning up the edges was a rotary tool with a sanding drum.
Taking more off the sides
The rest of the summary posts have been arranged by date. First time here?
Completed projects from year 1
Completed projects from year 2
Completed projects from year 3
Completed projects from year 4
Completed projects from year 5
Completed projects from year 6
Completed projects from year 7
Disclaimer for http://24hourengineer.blogspot.com and 24HourEngineer.com
This disclaimer must be intact and whole. This disclaimer must be included if a project is distributed.
All information on this blog, or linked by this blog, is not to be taken as advice or solicitation. Anyone attempting to replicate, in whole or in part, is responsible for the outcome and procedure. Any loss of functionality, money, property, or similar, is the responsibility of those involved in the replication.
All digital communication regarding the email address 24hourengineer@gmail.com becomes the intellectual property of Brian McEvoy. Any information contained within these messages may be distributed or retained at the discretion of Brian McEvoy. Any email sent to this address, or any email account owned by Brian McEvoy, cannot be used to claim property or assets.
Comments to the blog may be utilized or erased at the discretion of the owner. No one posting may claim property or assets based on their post.
This blog, including pictures and text, is copyright to Brian McEvoy.
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